During her India visit in January 2026, European Commission President Ursula von der Leyen won praise for her elegant embrace of Indian fashion. She wore a maroon-and-gold Banarasi brocade bandhgala jacket designed by Rajesh Pratap Singh at the Republic Day parade, and later a refined blue bandhgala ensemble by Anamika Khanna at the India–EU trade summit.
Fashion diplomacy is a subtle art. When global leaders visit India, their wardrobe choices often become symbolic gestures, sometimes celebrated, sometimes criticized. Too often, international figures fall into the trap of exoticizing Indian fashion, treating it as costume rather than culture.
Yet European Commission President Ursula von der Leyen stood out for her thoughtful embrace of Indian textiles, earning praise for getting it right where many others have stumbled.
Von der Leyen’s choices during her India engagements reflected a deep respect for the country’s textile heritage. Instead of opting for flashy, stereotypical “Bollywood-inspired” outfits, she wore garments rooted in authentic craftsmanship. A standout piece was her Varanasi brocade bandhgala jacket, a tribute to the centuries-old weaving traditions of Banaras.
By selecting this textile, she honoured artisans whose work has shaped India’s cultural identity for generations.
EU Commission President Ursula von der Leyen wore outfits designed by leading Indian designers Rajesh Pratap Singh and Anamika Khanna during her India visit in January 2026.
She chose a maroon and gold Banarasi brocade bandhgala jacket by Rajesh Pratap Singh for the Republic Day parade, and later a refined blue bandhgala ensemble by Anamika Khanna at the India–EU trade summit
Equally significant was her Northeastern eri silk stole, which she wore alongside Prime Minister Narendra Modi. Eri silk, often called ‘peace silk’, is indigenous to Assam and Meghalaya and is produced without harming silkworms. This choice highlighted sustainability and inclusivity, while also acknowledging India’s diverse regional traditions. It was a gesture that resonated far beyond aesthetics, it carried cultural and ecological meaning.
Many international leaders, when visiting India, fall into predictable patterns. They choose garments that are overly ornate, drenched in bright colours, or styled in ways that feel performative. These choices, though well-intentioned, often reduce Indian fashion to caricature.
Instead of celebrating the depth and diversity of India’s textile traditions, they present a superficial version that plays into stereotypes.
Another common misstep is cultural insensitivity, wearing garments without understanding their context.
What set Ursula von der Leyen apart was her understated elegance. She avoided excess and instead chose pieces that were sophisticated, respectful, and symbolic.
Her wardrobe communicated cultural appreciation without appropriation. By twinning with Modi in the eri silk stole, she emphasized shared respect for Indian heritage, turning fashion into a diplomatic bridge.
Her choices also aligned with broader European values of sustainability and craftsmanship. By highlighting handwoven textiles and eco-friendly silk, she connected Indian traditions with global conversations about ethical fashion. This made her wardrobe not just culturally sensitive but also politically resonant.
Her choices set a benchmark for how international figures can respectfully engage with Indian fashion. They show that clothing can be more than symbolic, it can be a tool of diplomacy, a way to honour traditions, and a gesture of solidarity with artisans.
In a world where fashion is often dismissed as frivolous, von der Leyen demonstrated its power to communicate values and build bridges.
Ursula von der Leyen’s embrace of Indian textiles was a masterclass in cultural sensitivity. By choosing authentic garments like Varanasi brocade and Northeastern eri silk, she avoided the pitfalls of tokenism and caricature. Her wardrobe was not just stylish, it was diplomatic, sustainable, and deeply respectful. She showed that fashion diplomacy, when done thoughtfully, can strengthen ties and celebrate heritage.
In doing so, she reminded the world that Indian fashion is not a costume but a living tradition, one that deserves recognition, respect, and authenticity.
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